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- #Jivelite on picoreplayer supported monitors how to
- #Jivelite on picoreplayer supported monitors driver
- #Jivelite on picoreplayer supported monitors code
Notro’s fbtft driver repo seems to be still a good reference point but may not be forever.
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Option 1 – fbtft and fbcp The Journey to a working LCD mirror My requirements for either solution were to have the header pins aligned with the bottom of the display so I could more easily hide them in the mini-LCD monitor’s bottom piece. The primary issues I had with both of these solutions involved rotation. Otherwise, I found that the second, fbcp-ili9341 worked the best, but it does utilize a little more CPU, so you may very well want to test both (the Raspberry Pi 4 handled it fine) Which one to use? Well, if only one works for you, choose that one. juj’s fbcp-ili9341 display driver that effectively does the same thing as #1, though it doesn’t technically create it’s own framebuffer, and it’s not just for ili9341 displays (it supports my ST7789!).Notro’s fbtft LCD device drivers, which create an LCD frame buffer at /dev/fb1, then utilizing tasanakorn’s fbcp program which copies /dev/fb0 (HDMI output) to /dev/fb1 (LCD output), effectively mirroring the display.Keep in mind that as the time of this writing, I’m using the Raspbian Buster Lite image on a Raspberry Pi 4. Also, another great Raspberry Pi pin-out page that’s interactive is made available by Gadgetoid. Remember that the Raspberry PI has numerous GPIO pins, but GPIO pin 24 doesn’t mean pin 24 on the pin-out diagram – always refer to some cheat sheet like this one from shown below. And so D/C is not actually an SPI pin, but this gives you freedom which Core pin to choose.
#Jivelite on picoreplayer supported monitors code
Since SPI only pushes out anonymous bitsreams the user code has to “tell” the controler if this will be a command (e.g. The DC or D/C pin is needed by some devices to distinguish between commands or data for the controler. Also, found a great summary here on particle.io: It seems there are variations in how SPI works, and here’s a simple summary of the same question on Adafruit’s site. “But I looked at Adafruit’s page and they reference CS AND D/C as SPI Chip Select?” I noticed that too… and it was confusing to me. We’ll be using GPIO 24, but this can be changed later as well. D/C connects to our the data/command pin.We’ll be using GPIO 25 but this can be changed later. CS connects to our SPI Chip Select pin.GND connects to the Raspberry Pi’s ground.Vin connects to the Raspberry Pi’s 3V pin.Here’s from Adafruit’s page specific to our ST7789 driven LCD display: (Editors Note – If you compare this to Adafruit’s wiring page, you may notice I swapped my RST and D/C pins – Adafruit uses 24/25 and I’m using 25/24 – It’s fine as long as you’re consistent with your physical pins and the command line options you’ll use later. We have a choice on the D/C pin, we went with a loose default of GPIO 25 on the Pi.We have a choice on the LCD’s reset pin, we went with a loose default of 24 on the Pi.We’re using the Raspi’s SPI0 mode, so that some of the LCD pins need to wire up to specific Raspberry Pi Pins. I followed the basic Adafruit directions for wiring the ST7789 driven 240×240 display into my Raspberry Pi. The display doesn’t come with header pins pre-soldered, so after remembering which end of the soldering iron is the hot end, I was able to move forward by placing the display into my breadboard: The LCD screen needed to be in a specific orientation – pins on the bottom – so they could more easily hide inside the 3D printed monitor ‘bottom’.The LCD should mirror HDMI output – I didn’t want this to be the primary display, but a mirrored display.Regardless of what display I chose – I knew I needed to have the following requirements satisfied: This becomes important later as I struggle with getting that working on the Raspberry Pi. It’s where I learned that the ST7789 chip is used to drive two different LCD displays – 240×240 and 320×240.
#Jivelite on picoreplayer supported monitors how to
Image from Adafruit’s Product Page A Couple of Quests for the Chosen OneĪdafruit has a great page in terms of how to wire this up to an Arduino and Raspberry Pi located here. Even though you’d be able to make out what I was playing on the OLED display mirroring my HDMI output, with the 240×240 you can actually read a good amount of text, as well. Once I plugged in the 240×240 display and saw the Commodore 64 Ready screen, I was sold. To that end, I’d try both with the Raspberry Pi and compare. The other, and my ultimate winner – the Adafruit 1.3″ 240×240 Wide Angle TFT LCD Display with MicroSD – ST7789 at least got me closer with 240×240, though it was a touch larger. I was also concerned with resolution, as it supports 96×64, a far cry from the Commodore 64’s 320×200. At about 1/12 scale this would have worked out nicely, though it felt a little ‘wide screen’ compared to the monitors I knew of my youth. The OLED Breakout Board – 16-bit Color 0.96″ w/microSD holder was a contender.